Unblock/Replace Impeller (30 Minutes)

Grinding noises & reduced flow typically occur within the pool pump when there is an internal blockage. Debris can get lodged into the impeller causing it to make this noise. The impeller may also be worn down, loose or out of position.

Symptoms

• Grinding noise/reduced flow
• Pump not priming (not filling with water)
• Reduced reading on filter's pressure gauge
• Cleaner moving slowly

Guide

1. Turn the pump off at the power switch, close all valves (if your equipment is below the water level), take the lid off and the basket out.
2. Detach the pump from the unions (inlet and outlet screw) and place the unit ideally on a table to take apart.
3. Take the 4-8 bolts out that connect the dry end of the pump to the wet end (where water goes through).
4. Pull the diffuser off the unit, may need to unscrew with some pumps (make sure when it is placed back on, it’s in line with any “Top” markings that some brands have).
5. Inspect the Diffuser & the O-Ring attached to it for any wearing down or corrosion, it’s a good idea to lubricate (with multi-purpose silicone lubricant) this O-Ring as well as the one connected to the motor (Main Body O-Ring) to provide better suction.
6. You will now see the impeller attached to the dry end, it has a hole through it and slots around the circumference. Remove any visible debris and use a stick that can bend or a coat hanger to clean out debris in the slots around it. This can be taken off if needed.
7. Inspect the impeller to see if there is any corrosion, if there is, you may need to replace this part above. If not, put the unit back together and attach it to the unions that it was connected to before.
8. Put the basket in and make sure you fill the pump basket with a bucket of water until it’s overflowing (this is called manually priming the pump). Once it’s full, screw the lid back on open any valves that you may have closed. You may now test the unit.

Changing Your Capacitor (15 Minutes)

Capacitors allow the pool pump to get up to speed before it switches over to using a different power source to run. It is similar to the battery in your car’s engine bay. They are commonly replaced when the symptoms above persist. It can be tested with a multimeter to know for certain.

Symptoms

• High-pitched buzzing
• Humming but no startup
• Starting intermittently
• Impeller/shaft/bearings are okay but pump is not working
• Capacitor housing has a bulge

Guide

1. Turn the pump off at the power switch, close all valves (if your equipment is below the water level), take the lid off and the basket out.
2. Detach the pump from the unions (inlet and outlet screw) and place the unit ideally on a table to take apart, ensuring there is no water near the capacitor.
3. While the pump is unplugged, unscrew the capacitor housing lid as shown in the photo, do not touch the capacitor.
4. As a safety measure, put on electrical gloves, get a small towel and move the tip of a screwdriver between the metal connection that are at the end of the cable as shown, wiggle it around for 10-20 seconds. This will simply remove any current (recommended).
5. Take a photo of the which cables go into which part of the capacitor, then use pliers or fingers to pull the cable ends off the capacitor.
6. Make sure you have the correct “uf rating” as stated on the capacitor, usually somewhere around 20-35uf. Use the replacement tool above to find a supplier for this part.
7. Attach the correct cable to the new capacitor and place it in the housing as it was before. Screw the capacitor housing back onto the pump’s body then attach the pump to the unions that it was connected to before.
8. Put the basket in and make sure you fill the pump basket with a bucket of water until it’s overflowing (this is called manually priming the pump). Once full, screw the lid back on open any valves that you may have closed. You may now test the unit.

Lubricate/Replace O-Ring & Lid (10 Minutes)

Sometimes, you can get a hairline crack in the pump lid. It can also be a case of the lid’s O-Ring corroding over time. However it is also very common that re-lubricating the O-Ring will prevent air from being sucked in and stop the issue for years to come.

Symptoms

Pump not priming (not filling with water), gurgling noise (air being sucked in), air getting into other equipment (eg. salt cell), water leaking around lid.

Guide

1. Turn the pump off at the power switch, close all valves (if your equipment is below the water level), take the lid off. If you are sure of a hairline crack in the lid, use the replacement tool above to find a supplier for this part. If not proceed to the second step.
2. Take the O-Ring out of the groove in the lid, inspect this ring to see if it is worn down in any way. If it is, use the replacement tool above to find a supplier for this part. If it’s not in terrible condition, apply a layer of silicone around the O-Ring, ensuring it’s covered.
3. Put either the lubricated O-Ring or the new O-Ring (lubrication still suggested) back into the old/new pump lid. Make sure you fill the pump basket with a bucket of water until it’s overflowing (this is called manually priming the pump). 
4. Once full, screw the lid back into the pump as tightly as possible. Open any valves that you may have closed. You may now test the unit.

Replacing The Pump - Damaged Motor (1 Hour)

Eventually the pump’s motor will get damaged, which can either happen over an extended period of time or if water gets into the dry end. Pump repairmen will not replace a motor as it is not economical to do so. This is especially the case with older pumps. Thus, a replacement is required. If the pump is less than five years old, there’s a small chance it can be repaired at your local pool store. Keep in mind, if it’s older than eight years, it is likely a write off and you will incur a labour charge.

Symptoms

• Pump tripping your electrics (after replacing the capacitor)
• Pump not turning on or making any noise (after replacing the capacitor)

Tips & Tricks

To get started, purchase a like for like replacement or similar unit at the store. If it’s not the exact same, you’ll need to do some re-plumbing, these six items can be purchased at any hardware store: 

• Thread Tape, PVC Glue & Saw,
• 40mm/50mm Pipe, 90° Elbow & Coupling.

1. The pump’s self-priming ability will improve the closer in height it is to the water level of the pool. The distance should be further than 1.5m. The longer distance between the pool and pump (head) and a greater number of turns in the pipe will reduce flow.
2. It is recommended (not required) that the pump is bolted directly to the ground/foundation, there are bolt holes for every pump. The area where the pump is installed must be solid, not vibrate and have adequate drainage/ventilation, as well as rain protection.
3. If the pump is installed above the water level, we recommend a check valve (allows water to travel one way) to stop water from going back into the suction line.
4. If the pump is installed below the water level, you require two-way (isolation) valves on both the suction and return line to stop water during any installation/service.

Removal Guide

1. Turn the pump off at the power switch, unplug the old pump from the timer/chlorinator/outlet (if your equipment is below the water level, close all valves, plus the multiport valve on the filter if it’s above/below).
2. Detach the pump from the unions (inlet and outlet screw off) and let all the water out. 

Installation Guide

1. Fit one of the unions over the discharge outlet by placing the nut over the sleeve and firmly tightening onto the pump housing. This will ensure no leakage at this point.
2. Fit one of the unions over the suction inlet by placing the nut over the sleeve and firmly tightening onto the pump housing. This will ensure no leakage at this point.
3. Ensure all valves/attachments are suitable for the pipe size used (either 40mm or 50mm), then complete all necessary re-plumbing to ensure the piping is well supported and not forced together in places where there’s constant stress.
4. To ensure a watertight fit it is recommended to use PVC glue (sometimes referred to as PVC cement) to connect the unions with the PVC pipe.
5. Clean both the pipe outside area and the union sleeve inside area with PVC pipe primer. The PVC primer makes sure the glue will have a stronghold and seal. Repeat this process for the suction inlet pipe.
6. Apply PVC glue to the surface of the pipe that contacts the union sleeve and also to the inside of the union sleeve itself. Now push them together to create a firm connection. Do not operate the pump for at least 24 hours after glueing to give it time to set.
7. After 24 hours, open the lid and fill the pump basket with water until it’s overflowing. Turn the multiport valve handle to filter from closed, then open any other valves you may have closed. 
8. Plug the pump into an electrical outlet, then turn it on to test it, it should fill up with water indication a successful installation. You may now connect the pump to your automatic timer/chlorinator.